Once again I am reminded of, and thus devastated about, the loss of Gourmet. We’re off to Providence for Thanksgiving. Many McPhees collecting at my cousin’s house to cook an enormous feast. (Twenty-six of us this year.) We arrive each year armed with Gourmet and the intention to cook many of the recipes, replacing the ones that interest us less with recipes from past November issues. I have had more than a few friends ask what we will do without Gourmet. I don’t know, is the answer. The year of the Persian-influenced Thanksgiving (I still make the jeweled rice regularly) we made every single recipe. We even bought the calla lilies used in the illustration to decorate the table. I can’t help feeling that S.I. Newhouse will come to his senses, that he’ll bring Gourmet back. It will come back. It will. In the meantime, we have this year. Off we go, ready to roll our sleeves up and cook: Bacon Smashed Potatoes, and Toasted Cornbread Pudding, and Kale With Panfried Walnuts, and Oyster Casserole, and Braised Turnip Greens With Turnips and Apples, and Brown Sugar Baked Sweet Potatoes And Acorn Squash, Cranberry Celery Relish, and Bourbon Pumpkin Pie, and this is just the beginning. My splendid, gracious cousin, her welcoming family, her parents, my parents (both sets divorced), our stepmothers, in-laws, a few of my many lovely sisters, all the children, even my cat—all of us in the kitchen, inspired by Gourmet: stirring, whipping, melting, rolling, stuffing, carving. Happy Thanksgiving.